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Already, there are quirky art installations everywhere that bring the city's heritage alive.

If you have time, it's worth stopping by beforehand at the Musée du Vieux Toulon at 10 rue Saint Andrieu, a treasure trove for anyone interested in history.

In the 1950s its bars, restaurants and brothels were strictly off-limits to American sailors on shore leave.

The best starting point is on the place Louis Blanc, where you can stop by the Tourist Office for a large-scale map of the city centre.

But, for a tasty street snack, don't miss the little stall selling cade, a Toulon speciality made of ground chickpeas - similar to the panisse of Marseille or the socca of Nice, but less fatty, since it's not fried but baked in the oven in a round pizza-style dish.

Called cade after , the Italian for hot, this snack can be either savoury (flavoured with olives anchovies, cumin, you name it... If you miss the market, you can buy it nearby at La Cade à Dédé, 17 rue Charles Poncy.

Click here to read about Toulon's beaches and the picturesque quarter of Le Mourillon, here to read about the harbour, naval base and maritime museum, here to read about the cable car ride up Mont Faron and here to find out about the Toulon Rugby Club and its legendary Stade Mayol.

This part of Toulon is compact and you can easily visit the sights mentioned here in a leisurely couple of hours' stroll.

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